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Custom Nendoroid Help T^TCustom Nendoroid Help T^T

lieryllieryl1 mês atrásAsk MFC
alrighty i’m starting my first nendoroid custom soon and i have several oddly specific questions along with some basic ones about the whole process ^^

- could i use my winsor newton acrylic paints? and if i do, would i need to spray some type of base?

- for sealant (i’ll be using matte) if i only need to seal one part of a body (like i painted the jacket but the shirt has not been painted) do i still spray the sealant all over or should i cover the unpainted parts?

- if i need a base, what’s recommended?

- would it be possible to change the eye colors using chalk pastels? and how would i seal that?

- just an overall supply list i may need because i’m clueless T^T

- anything else i must know ^^

thanks in advance!
724 hits • 13 comentários

Comentários13

1pt
lieryl (1 mês atrás) #54964987thank you for the information! i actually have enamel paints from that same company, should i use those or go out and buy the acrylics?

Both enamel and acrylics are good, but they don't interact well with each other without layers of sealant in between. That's all the help I can give you about enamels, because I've never used them. ^^; I do know they're very popular, though.

Auri (1 mês atrás) #54938609Anyway, these are some of the articles linked to the club:
(links)
Which youtube channels do you watch? I may have some more suggestions.


Wow, that's a ton! Thanks for sharing them!

I don't subscribe to any channels in particular, I just go to the search bar and use terms like "figure customization" or "milliput sculpting" and sort them by date to see what videos are new since my last search. Any suggestion is welcome - even if it's one I have seen, it could be one somebody else hasn't.
1 mês atrás
1pt
lesser-robot-cat (1 mês atrás) #54860315Definitely the rules. I tried to join last year, read the whole essay three times and still couldn't figure out the wording on the questions on the exam to get in. They looked like trick questions designed to keep outsiders out. Dummies not welcome, and I was the dummy. =\
Personally, I live for public posts about Nendoroid customization. Why keep it all hidden, you know? It's a hobby, not a crime.
-
And adding onto my own post, because I started writing out my answers and they turned into a whole essay....
PAINT - I've had mixed to bad results with acrylics that weren't specifically sold for model-painting. It can be thinned down, but the more acrylic thinner you use, the more transparent the paint becomes. Acrylic paints that are already fluid have more pigment in them, so you get bolder color for less effort. These days I use Testors Model Master flat acrylics. It costs around 3-5$ per bottle, and it goes a long way. Btw, if you have the option, get flat finish paint instead of glossy. Glossy makes Nendoroids look like new cars.
SEALANT - Go ahead and spray it all over - except the joints/holes. What you use might not have the same finish as what Good Smile uses, and if the spray accidentally gets where it's not supposed to, it'll look like the nendo's clothes are dirty, or there might be a thick line where the masking stopped. Leave the joints the way they are, or they might become too thick to fit together.

BASE
- Tamiya Surface Primer L is sturdy and comes in different tones.
EYES - That linked tutorial is awesome, give it a try. Chalk pastel is hard to control in such a tiny space, especially since Nendoroid eyes have that sharp, clean anime aesthetic. When you're satisfied with the paint job on the face, seal the whole face to keep the texture even.
SUPPLIES - Depends on how much you want to customize.
- Are you planning to add or remove anything from the hair/face/body? If so, you'll want carving tools, an epoxy putty, and sandpaper of several different grades.
- Are you picky about brush strokes? If so, you'll want an airbrush and a can of air (expensive in the long run, but if you're just starting out, don't spend two hundred bucks on fancy equipment)
- Do you want to add fine details that you might not be able to paint? If so, you'll want to get some water slide decal paper and fixative spray.
Customization can be simple or complex depending on the character, the parts you've got to work with, and how much effort you want to put into it. It doesn't have to be done all at once, either.
BONUS TIP - Sometimes it's a good emotional investment to finish the hair and face, pick up a cheap Dress Up More body (wedding gown, bikini, suit and tie, etc) and keep the custom head on that while you work on the custom body. I'm doing that with one of mine right now. It could take a thousand years to finish his body (to even work up the will to tackle it again), but until that day, at least I can play with him, lol.


thank you for the information! i actually have enamel paints from that same company, should i use those or go out and buy the acrylics?
1 mês atrás
1pt
lesser-robot-cat (1 mês atrás) #54936880That's great! Could you please share them? Even though I've learned a lot about customization, there's still much more I would like to learn. Everything I know has come from YouTube videos about gunpla and tabletop RP figurines (and trial and error, of course), but I think my customs could improve with information from articles dedicated solely to Nendoroid customization.
As for the club, I don't take it seriously. People with learning disabilities like mine are accustomed to not being smart enough to figure out quizzes and tests. It doesn't bother me that I'm not welcome, just that I don't have access to information and possible tips or guidance about customization from people who've been doing it longer than I have and better understand the craft aspect of the hobby.

What I mean when I say not to take it seriously is exactly about the test, it's not that they wanted to marginalize anyone, that's just a side effect, but most people are able to take the test, so they cater to them. I'm sorry you aren't able to do so, and I wish there was another easier way for you and others having such problems. Have you tried contacting the admin? Anyway, these are some of the articles linked to the club:

Making molds
Making customs while keeping originals
Removing eyes
Tan experiment
Modifying eyes
Custom nendoroids for beginners 1
Custom nendoroids for beginners 2
Custom nendoroids for beginners 3
Custom nendoroids for beginners 4

Which youtube channels do you watch? I may have some more suggestions.
1 mês atrás
1pt
Auri (1 mês atrás) #54915827there are a ton of public articles out there

That's great! Could you please share them? Even though I've learned a lot about customization, there's still much more I would like to learn. Everything I know has come from YouTube videos about gunpla and tabletop RP figurines (and trial and error, of course), but I think my customs could improve with information from articles dedicated solely to Nendoroid customization.

As for the club, I don't take it seriously. People with learning disabilities like mine are accustomed to not being smart enough to figure out quizzes and tests. It doesn't bother me that I'm not welcome, just that I don't have access to information and possible tips or guidance about customization from people who've been doing it longer than I have and better understand the craft aspect of the hobby.
1 mês atrás
1pt
lesser-robot-cat (1 mês atrás) #54860315Definitely the rules. I tried to join last year, read the whole essay three times and still couldn't figure out the wording on the questions on the exam to get in. They looked like trick questions designed to keep outsiders out. Dummies not welcome, and I was the dummy. =\
Personally, I live for public posts about Nendoroid customization. Why keep it all hidden, you know? It's a hobby, not a crime.


You have quite a weird opinion on this, no one said it is a crime, but seeing always the same questions when as you say there are a ton of public articles out there, gets tiring. The rules are there for a reason. I was there before the test thing, it is being used because people were breaking the rules anyway, involving money too, so they thought it would be easier and safer to just test people on the rules to make sure they understood them and knew if they were breaking them. I don't know how hard the test is, but don't take it so personally, it's not that serious.
1 mês atrás
2pt
Auri (1 mês atrás) #54809388I don't know why people keep posting here, maybe because of the rules of the club? Anyway many people are in this group CLUB #576 which mostly deals with custom nendoroids, where to find parts, what to use and how.

Definitely the rules. I tried to join last year, read the whole essay three times and still couldn't figure out the wording on the questions on the exam to get in. They looked like trick questions designed to keep outsiders out. Dummies not welcome, and I was the dummy. =\

Personally, I live for public posts about Nendoroid customization. Why keep it all hidden, you know? It's a hobby, not a crime.

-

And adding onto my own post, because I started writing out my answers and they turned into a whole essay....

PAINT - I've had mixed to bad results with acrylics that weren't specifically sold for model-painting. It can be thinned down, but the more acrylic thinner you use, the more transparent the paint becomes. Acrylic paints that are already fluid have more pigment in them, so you get bolder color for less effort. These days I use Testors Model Master flat acrylics. It costs around 3-5$ per bottle, and it goes a long way. Btw, if you have the option, get flat finish paint instead of glossy. Glossy makes Nendoroids look like new cars.

SEALANT - Go ahead and spray it all over - except the joints/holes. What you use might not have the same finish as what Good Smile uses, and if the spray accidentally gets where it's not supposed to, it'll look like the nendo's clothes are dirty, or there might be a thick line where the masking stopped. Leave the joints the way they are, or they might become too thick to fit together.

BASE
- Tamiya Surface Primer L is sturdy and comes in different tones.

EYES - That linked tutorial is awesome, give it a try. Chalk pastel is hard to control in such a tiny space, especially since Nendoroid eyes have that sharp, clean anime aesthetic. When you're satisfied with the paint job on the face, seal the whole face to keep the texture even.

SUPPLIES - Depends on how much you want to customize.

- Are you planning to add or remove anything from the hair/face/body? If so, you'll want carving tools, an epoxy putty, and sandpaper of several different grades.

- Are you picky about brush strokes? If so, you'll want an airbrush and a can of air (expensive in the long run, but if you're just starting out, don't spend two hundred bucks on fancy equipment)

- Do you want to add fine details that you might not be able to paint? If so, you'll want to get some water slide decal paper and fixative spray.

Customization can be simple or complex depending on the character, the parts you've got to work with, and how much effort you want to put into it. It doesn't have to be done all at once, either.

BONUS TIP - Sometimes it's a good emotional investment to finish the hair and face, pick up a cheap Dress Up More body (wedding gown, bikini, suit and tie, etc) and keep the custom head on that while you work on the custom body. I'm doing that with one of mine right now. It could take a thousand years to finish his body (to even work up the will to tackle it again), but until that day, at least I can play with him, lol.
1 mês atrás
1pt
lieryl (1 mês atrás) #54840989thank you! would you recommend a clear base or a white one?

Base as in base for painting?

Clear has more uses, and can be used if you want to do custom nendoroid faces.
You also don't have to mask as much since it in the end is just gonna be clear anyway.
I use clear btw, since Mr.SC is a clear base/sealant.

I think white can be ok if you want to make something lighter than it was before.

Ie: You have a black nendoroid jacket you want in light pastels. It'd be better to get the white base.

I think you can find some good videos on that online though, helping you chose what base is best, and with tips on how to use them.
1 mês atrás
1pt
Iskana (1 mês atrás) #54840746You can both use it as a base, since it gives the plastic a tooth to stick to, a rough surface, and to seal it afterwards.
You basically spray it after every major step, or everytime you want your progress saved. If you do a small error it's easier to clean up if you already sealed a layer, so you don't ruin the previous one.
Also, yes, after painting the main colour of the hair, you seal it, and then add the pastels. It's like a save point basically.
You don't need allot, and be careful with using it though, it's not good to breathe in, so spray in a well ventilated area, with a something to protect your nose and mouth.


thank you! would you recommend a clear base or a white one?
1 mês atrás
1pt
lieryl (1 mês atrás) #54839002what do you mean by Mr SC being both a base and sealant? could i buy one bottle and spray it before i paint and then after i paint to seal? i am also planning on using pastels for hair shading,would i spray the matte sealant after i paint and before i start shading or after i have painted and shaded?

You can both use it as a base, since it gives the plastic a tooth to stick to, a rough surface, and to seal it afterwards.

You basically spray it after every major step, or everytime you want your progress saved. If you do a small error it's easier to clean up if you already sealed a layer, so you don't ruin the previous one.

Also, yes, after painting the main colour of the hair, you seal it, and then add the pastels. It's like a save point basically.

You don't need allot, and be careful with using it though, it's not good to breathe in, so spray in a well ventilated area, with a something to protect your nose and mouth.
1 mês atrás
1pt
Iskana (1 mês atrás) #54808760Acrylics are fine, the "worst" part of them is just that unless you use an acrylics thinner it'll dry with brush strokes, or dab marks from whatever you use for that method. Water doesn't really help bc it just waters it down, while actual acrylics thinner keeps the structure of the paint intact.
I've sprayed my sealant all over the body/face part I've worked on, and it didn't ruin the existing features. You have to be careful when doing so though, since some sealants are aggressive and if you use too much at once, it can make the original paint smear/bleed, and the one you added.
(Honestly, just check for how to apply the sealant before spraying and be careful)
Personally I used Mr.SC since I've only got a few small projects lying around and so it's not that wild to splurge a little, since it's both sealant and base.
No clue, don't think so since it takes allot of time to get a good colour by layering pastels, and it'd probably just result in becoming too heavy/messy look, especially if the original eyes are darker than the colour you want to achieve.
If you state what kinda custom nendoroid project you're doing I think it'd be easier to help, since some people just wanna get the right parts, and then do minor changes to them, while other's do complete art projects with sculpting and adding or removing parts to make their customs.
But for the acrylics:
Get an acrylics thinner, it makes working with acrylics easier and makes it smoother.



what do you mean by Mr SC being both a base and sealant? could i buy one bottle and spray it before i paint and then after i paint to seal? i am also planning on using pastels for hair shading,would i spray the matte sealant after i paint and before i start shading or after i have painted and shaded?
1 mês atrás
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