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Muntoe's GK Compendium Part 4: Painting, Shading, Sealing (2)Muntoe's GK Compendium Part 4: Painting, Shading, Sealing (2)Tutorial

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MuntoeMuntoe7 anos atrás
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Hi and thanks for reading one of the last parts of my WIP! These final steps are always my favorite part of the whole building process because the garage kit pops when in color. This post is PICTURE HEAVY because I wanted people to see how layers make a difference and how much time it takes me to paint my kit. I have also split this section into TWO PARTS because one would be way too picture-intensive. I hope this post is helpful and persuades some of you who are scared to paint a garage kit to start your first one.

Previous WIP posts can be found here:

Part 1: Background and Supplies
Part 2: Sanding, Washing, Priming
Part 3: Putty and Priming
Part 4 (1): Painting, Shading, Sealing
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FINALLY, what you've all been waiting for and what I know a lot of you are scared about..painting eyes!

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If there's one thing I've learned from painting eyes it's that patience is key. Most people are scared about this step and assume they don't have talent; YOU DO! Remember that information about reference pictures? Those pictures are crucial if your goal is to make your character look accurate (of course your personal style is fine too!). Eyes in anime, manga, and games come in all sorts of different colors and sizes and each one calls for a different technique. There is no "correct" way to paint eyes, it's all about style!

There are many ways to paint eyes; some people use a marker to outline the eyes, some mask the areas before painting, others color them entirely with sharpies. Experiment until you find a way that works best for you. When you're painting eyes you MUST MUST MUST use a thin paintbrush (seriously guys)! A common beginner's mistake is to use a large brush to paint eyes and eyebrows. The end result is often unprofessional and looks kind of "globby" if that makes sense. Brush sizes are numbered and the larger the number, the bigger or wider the brush. Save yourself the trouble and practice with small brushes, there is a huge difference between a 2, 0, and 2/0! I usually work with a 00 brush.

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Brushes run in many different sizes and lengths, it's up to you to find out what you like.

HOW TO PAINT EYES:

Although anime eyes are stylized they share many similarities with real eyes. I've found the best way to learn how to paint eyes is to study the real human eye; observe how it moves and how it shines in order to avoid that "deer-in-headlights" look.

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Almost all anime eyes have the basics; a schlera, pupil, iris, and shine.


After you've made sure your base layers are sealed, start by painting thin layers of white onto the kit; this will become the schlera. The number of layers depends on how thick you apply your paint.

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Next, outline the area you want to paint with a pencil (I used 0.05 lead). You can also draw some eyes on paper to become comfortable with the style.

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After you have roughly sketched the eyes, it's time to paint! The next few steps can be in any order you want; some people paint the iris first, other people add eyelashes and eyebrows, the order doesn't matter as long as you reach a desired outcome. I tend to jump around when I work on eyes and just pick out things that bother me lol.

Start with the base color. Apply in thin layers until the entire area is covered; this is the kit's iris. Add eyelashes and continue to work with the paint, altering it until it fits the style you like. Do NOT be afraid to change the eyes, you can always rub off paint and start over. You can see in my photos that the shape of Len's eyes changes each photo as I progress.

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The shape I decided on

After the color is even you can start shading your kit's eyes. To shade I make a color darker by adding black or another color in the spectrum and thin it to a milky consistency. Apply carefully and allow to dry. You may need to paint over the eyes with a black outline again to complete the anime look.I used a mixture of the base red and black to achieve the darker red shading in her eyes.

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The completed, shaded eyes. Notice the top left eye has some paint on it in order to change the angle of Len's eyelashes. I also shaded her smile in with pencil since black or another color would be too wide.

You can add a pupil depending on the character (Ex. Kirino, Rei, Inuyasha, etc.) and paint multiple layers to add depth as well. Finally, estimate where you want the kit's eyes to shine and dab a little white paint on it. Eye shine really completes that 'anime' look but make sure both of the white parts face the same direction. Len doesn't have pupils so I can't really add them but this is what they would look like edited in Photoshop.

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Len feels kind of scary here haha...

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I've found it really helps to take pictures or take small breaks when painting the eyes because when you come back you can see the flaws in your work. Try to paint both eyes equally apart and make sure they are the same width or else it will look derpy. Make sure to clear your paint palette when it gets dirty too...





These pictures of Sailor Moon's eyes also show the general steps to how I paint (sorry for the bad Photoshop lol). You paint the area white, then add in the outline and base tone followed by shading and then shine.

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If the sound of painting eyes makes your heart stop plenty of kits include decals! I prefer painting eyes since most decals are generic but you can also purchase some "anime" decals here at Archer Transfers.

Another common issue I see among both new and old builders is a lack of eyebrows. Any kit with missing eyebrows makes me cringe a little since it looks so unnatural. Eyebrows too similar to the kit's skintone also bother me but that may just be personal preference lol...anyway, eyebrows tend to be hit or miss. Sometimes you get guidelines on your kit, other times your surface may be totally flat and it's up to you to fill them in. I usually (accidentally) start out thick and then work my way to thinner eyebrows by wiping off areas with Windex and/or layering more skintone on them. MAKE SURE your eyes are sealed by this point! You don't want to screw up your eyebrows, wipe some off and then have the cleaner dribble down and mess up the work on your eyes.

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Notice the skintone layer on the right eye...I won't see it up close and most is covered by bangs so I don't really care lol
But they're just the thickness I want :)
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There are always little things you can do to make your kit stand out and I want to sidetrack before I dig into the final steps. I was looking through my pieces and wondering where the little ribbon for Len's shirt went...and it's GONE!!! The bow is GONE! Even though I'm really pissed I figure I can use my massive screw-up to teach you guys a lesson in creativity. It's sometimes possible to resculpt small pieces but other times you're in real trouble and have to improvise. Notice that the pom-poms are fuzzy and the top of her collar thing looks textured. The pom-pom balls are really ugly for my kit so I'm going to completely change them to set my build apart.

I didn't really think about these details until I lost the bow and now I see I can just make some with thin thread, pom poms, and trim. Another reason why you should keep reference pictures handy :p
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I took this mustache because it's black and fuzzy :p



♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥With the lovely fuzz -->




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Now you're probably thinking "Well I finished the eyes and that's the hardest part and I added some stuff so I'm a special snowflake AND I'M DONE!!!" Sorry, not yet! You may notice on a lot of PVC figures that certain parts tend to stand out like faces, areas where undies meet leg, etc. This is almost always due to shading on the figure that gives it depth.

Shading is probably my favorite part of the whole building process. You may have a good base layer of paint but without shading your kit essentially looks lifeless (and there's only so much natural shadows can do). Shading your garage kit makes it appear more professional and brings it to life :) I'm not going to go over what to shade in this WIP, if you want to know how to shade figures you can look at how artists use anime cell shading or study your body in real life to see how shadows are cast.
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I use chalk pastels to shade my kit. If you have an airbrush this step isn't necessary since you can layer colors on top of one another but it's very difficult to layer hand-brushed paint without it becoming streaky or sloppy. Pastels give good coverage and are forgiving since you can wipe them off with water or Windex. I've noticed that it's usually better to shade with the darker pastels since they show up a lot differently on a painted surface. The pastels I'm using in this WIP are Mungyo pastels; they are very vibrant and inexpensive. I bought these on a whim but they work beautifully and I love the size (they're half the size of normal pastels). You can purchase a set of 48 at T-Mart if you want a bargain for ~$14USD plus free shipping! I highly recommend them compared to other brands at craft stores.

HOW TO SHADE WITH PASTELS:

Make sure your paint layers are sealed!
Then shading with pastels is easy. First line up the colors you think will work on your kit.
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Using an X-acto knife, carefully shave off some pastel. You can also mix pastels this way.
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Using a Q-tip or small brush, pick up some pastel and lightly brush it against the kit. Blow away dust.
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That's really all there is to it! Pastel is very forgiving and as long as you've sealed the paint underneath you can wipe off the pastels and try again if you aren't satisfied with the result. Keep in mind some darker pastels may stain your kit so you may want to try on a test area or somewhere that isn't as noticeable.

Hair Shading:

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Skin Shading:

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♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥Before♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥After

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Hair and skin parts shaded. I also added an upper eyelid with a 0.005 brown Micron pen like this:

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Shading is the last step before finally putting together your kit and displaying it. Be proud you've come this far but don't forget to seal your hard work!
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The last step in building is gluing your kit together. Gluing ensures that your work will not break into pieces if it ever falls down or somehow gets hit! I've heard horror stories where someone built their kit without gluing it together, a cat knocked it down........well you get the idea haha. Don't make that mistake!

I use what is called a two-part epoxy glue. You can buy this at most hobby stores. I recommend the Bob Smith Industry brand, it's lasted me close to four years and still works perfectly. I've heard other brands like Devcon don't hold as well so this is just my personal favorite. It also comes with different drying times like 15 and 30 min. but I recommend the 5-minute curing time since I don't want to hold my kit any longer than that.




HOW TO GLUE YOUR KIT TOGETHER:

Using epoxy also isn't difficult once you've gotten the hang of it.
Squeeze an equal amount of epoxy and hardener onto a disposable surface.
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Equally mix the two parts with a disposable item like a toothpick.
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Apply to area you want glued (don't overapply or glue will spill out)
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Steadily hold the pieces together until the time on your epoxy passes.
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Epoxy dries quickly (esp. the 5-min. one) so don't be afraid to mix some more, there is plenty!
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After you've finished gluing your pieces together it's really just a matter of pinning and gluing your kit to an appropriate base. Make sure that the pin extends far enough into your kit that it will not lose balance.

Glue your kit to the base for added protection and you're done!
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I know I'm not the best GK builder and there are definitely much more talented people but I hope that you learned a little bit from my WIPs...thank you for reading ^^ If you'd like to see how I built the base please check out my blog since I don't want to spam this section any more haha. Regarding finished pictures... they are available on my blog or in my pictures on here, thanks!

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19,150 hits • 73 favoritos28 comentários

Comentários28

Muntoe Lover of cacti ♡꒰*・ω・
gamu1233 anos atrás#16108337Hey Muntoe,
Thank you so very much for your advice. I have learnt a lot in your blog and you have been a great
help ^_^
Thank you for reading! If you ever have any other questions feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll do my best to answer :)
3 anos atrás
Hey Muntoe,
Thank you so very much for your advice. I have learnt a lot in your blog and you have been a great
help ^_^



Muntoe3 anos atrás#16107554Hiya!
1. Yes. This is a common method to get rid of gaps and also to make pieces look seamless (e.g. hairlines). You've described the correct order. ^^ You may want to mask the surrounding areas and apply some primer to the puttied area to make sure the color ends up being the same after you've painted it. I actually did this to get rid of the line in the front of Len's dress (see smg.photobucket... vs. img.photobucket...)

2. I suppose it depends on the putty. Personally I wouldn't use a household putty but I have a friend who uses the Bondo brand for her GKs and it works fine. As long as you buy a putty that doesn't shrink or crack after it's dry you should be OK!
3 anos atrás
Muntoe Lover of cacti ♡꒰*・ω・
gamu1233 anos atrás#16091695Hi I'm gonna start my 1st built. I have a few question though. I saw that you painted all parts individually befor
glued them in a whole.
1)For example the shoulder part connect to the arms were the same color but after I glue them and I
realize a gap in between. Should I just fill the gap, sand and repaint the gap part?
2) can a household PuttyFiller be use on gk?
Hiya!

1. Yes. This is a common method to get rid of gaps and also to make pieces look seamless (e.g. hairlines). You've described the correct order. ^^ You may want to mask the surrounding areas and apply some primer to the puttied area to make sure the color ends up being the same after you've painted it. I actually did this to get rid of the line in the front of Len's dress (see smg.photobucket... vs. img.photobucket...)

2. I suppose it depends on the putty. Personally I wouldn't use a household putty but I have a friend who uses the Bondo brand for her GKs and it works fine. As long as you buy a putty that doesn't shrink or crack after it's dry you should be OK!
3 anos atrás
Hi I'm gonna start my 1st built. I have a few question though. I saw that you painted all parts individually befor
glued them in a whole.

1)For example the shoulder part connect to the arms were the same color but after I glue them and I
realize a gap in between. Should I just fill the gap, sand and repaint the gap part?

2) can a household PuttyFiller be use on gk?
3 anos atrás
Muntoe3 anos atrás#15970122That's up to you as the artist, I wouldn't know :p She's wearing pink in ITEM #11 though so if you want to be consistent go with that?
Maybe I'll try messing around, seeing what works.
3 anos atrás
Muntoe Lover of cacti ♡꒰*・ω・
GCNess3 anos atrás#15967909I mean as what color do I paint them if you never see them in the work they are from.
I plan on working on this: ITEM #16018 and I can't seem to find out what color they are. So what color should I paint them? The character is tsundere btw.
That's up to you as the artist, I wouldn't know :p She's wearing pink in ITEM #11 though so if you want to be consistent go with that?
3 anos atrás
Muntoe3 anos atrás#15946464I'm not sure what your question is. Are you asking whether or not you should paint her panties or do any work on them? Personally I prefer to work on all the pieces and paint them all even if I won't see them later because then I know I've truly finished it (plus sometimes you can cast-off pieces). I suppose if you didn't really care about it then you could skip painting them, it's more of a personal preference hahaha
I mean as what color do I paint them if you never see them in the work they are from.
I plan on working on this: ITEM #16018 and I can't seem to find out what color they are. So what color should I paint them? The character is tsundere btw.
3 anos atrás
Muntoe Lover of cacti ♡꒰*・ω・
GCNess3 anos atrás#15945075So I plan on doing a garage kit in the future of a character who you never see the pansu of. So what is your advice?I'm not sure what your question is. Are you asking whether or not you should paint her panties or do any work on them? Personally I prefer to work on all the pieces and paint them all even if I won't see them later because then I know I've truly finished it (plus sometimes you can cast-off pieces). I suppose if you didn't really care about it then you could skip painting them, it's more of a personal preference hahaha
3 anos atrás
So I plan on doing a garage kit in the future of a character who you never see the pansu of. So what is your advice?
3 anos atrás
Muntoe Lover of cacti ♡꒰*・ω・
Hi ^^ That is a very cute kit. Hopefully I've answered your questions below.

Blueleader723 anos atrás#15464090You do shading after final sealing. (How) do you protect the crayon? After you finish shading you will need to spray a final coat of sealant to protect the pastels. This is generally how I work: Paint base colors --> seal --> add details --> seal --> shade with airbrush and/or pastels --> seal

Blueleader723 anos atrás#15464090I'll use Water based Acrylic Color from Vallejo. I'm afraid that the Sealing react with the color. On Tamiya Homepage I found nothing about compatibility only that it is Acryl Spray. Do you have any experience?Most commercial sealers should not react with acrylic paint - just be sure to spray thin coats. I haven't used a Tamiya spray can but if it's anything like their airbrush colors it should also be safe. Be sure to spray in a ventilated area.

Blueleader723 anos atrás#15464090And is it necessary to Seal the Color from the dress, which is also Acryl Spray? In my opinion it's equal to a sealing but it's white not transparent.Yes, you will need to seal the dress after you spray it with the Tamiya spray. The Tamiya spray can is not a sealant, it is an aerosolized paint. Therefore if you do not seal your work afterwards you can still scratch the paint off.

Good luck! Feel free to PM me with any other questions and I'd be happy to help ^^
3 anos atrás
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